Bobbi wrote her first novel, Cream with Your Coffin, and signed with a U.S.
literary agent who is now (still) pitching Cream
with Your Coffin to New York editors. Almost finished her second novel,
thriller De Rigueur Mortis, Bobbi is
already planning the second 1954 Paris thriller and thinking about a research
trip.
Channelling
Chanel
By Bobbi Mumm
As I do final revisions to my 1954 Paris
thriller, De Rigueur Mortis, I spend
a lot of time thinking about Coco Chanel.
The novel’s adventure revolves around Chanel and her Rue Cambon atelier and boutique. In 1954 Coco
Chanel presented her first collection in fifteen years – she’d closed her
premises when war was declared. She already had superstar status along with
notoriety as a probable Nazi collaborator.
It took her very little time to regain her position as the premiere
designer of haute couture. So what is
it about Chanel that keeps us fascinated? Why do we still talk about her, a
full hundred and two years after she opened her first hat shop in Paris? I
think the legend that was Coco Chanel has three roots:
1)
Chanel’s Drive and Personality
From the age of twelve, Coco Chanel was
raised in an orphanage where her father had abandoned her upon her mother’s
death. The nuns taught her to sew, demanded self-discipline, and placed her in
her first job at a hosiery shop. As well as these skills taught by the nuns, Coco
Chanel had a natural energy and unnerving charisma that swept everyone along
with her in the pursuit of her dreams.
2)
Chanel’s Talent and Vision
Coco Chanel revolutionized fashion. She
proclaimed that clothing should be comfortable (an unfashionable idea) and that
men should not be dressing women. Among Chanel’s many firsts:
Sunbathing: Chanel sported a sun-kissed
visage in 1920. Until then, most women prized a milky-white complexion.
Trousers for women: Coco Chanel borrowed
her lover’s trousers and wore them in public, naturally in the most chic manner
possible.
Little Black Dress: Chanel, in 1926,
released the first “Little Black Dress” as it came to be known.
Lipstick in a Swivel Tube: Before Chanel’s
1920’s innovation lipstick was in a pot.
Quilted handbags, fake pearls, chains as
jacket hem weights and as a visible accessory, knitted, comfortable fabrics for
women, ballerina pumps… The list goes on.
3)
Chanel’s Notoriety and Scandal
Chanel lived for two things, love and her
work. Her passion for the men in her life led her several times deep into
scandal and, once, near-imprisonment. As a young woman she lived in the world
of the demi-monde, the lover of a
succession of several rich play-boys, some of them married. Later, during WWII,
Chanel’s very public affair with a German officer and agent runner in Paris led
her to be arrested after the war on charges of collaboration. Scholars have
never agreed as to Chanel’s involvement as a spy, either only for the Germans
or, as a double-agent, working for the French and British. I choose to believe
the latter.
It is Chanel’s wartime activities that were
of great interest to me as I wrote De
Rigueur Mortis. In 1954, alleged wartime wrongdoing was still extremely
divisive in Paris society. Throw into the mix the start of the Algerian
revolution, France’s loss of Indo-China, and the throngs of young American’s
seeking their muse in Paris and I had a lovely, tumultuous canvas on which to
paint this mystery thriller.
Thank you to Kaye for this chance to write
about what I love. So tell me, what do you find most interesting or inspiring
about Coco Chanel?
22 comments:
Fascinating Bobbi! I didn't know about all the intrigue around Coco Chanel. Fabulous potential there for any storyteller.
What I did know was that she designed fabulous suits for women and that her namesake perfumes are wonderful and beyond my reach, price-wise. I look forward to reading De Rigeur Mortis.
Bobbi, Hi! Welcome!!!
Oooooh - I am charmed and intrigued by all things Coco.
What I wish would be to have ropes and ropes and ropes of pearls like she did. I would wear them every day with everything. Jeans and boots? YEP! PJs - you bet! I have always been smitten with all her pearls. (I am the most shallows person you know).
I cannot WAIT to read De Rigeur Mortis!
and I can't even spell "shallow." sigh.
Eve, thanks for stopping by. She was an amazing woman. It seems her one weakness was her intense love for the men in her life. She went through torment and heartbreak many times because of these guys, most of them married cads. Her German lover, the spy-runner, Hans Gunther von Dincklage, was a user of people, and yet Chanel stayed with him for many years. Even spied for him (they say).
Kaye, it's such a pleasure to be here. Thank you. I'm with you on the ropes of pearls. And they'd go perfectly with your red boots. That's another Chanel ground-breaker: costume jewelry.
You know, Kaye, your unstoppability and your charm make you an inspiration, as well. We love watching your novel emerge. And, who knows, it may turn out to be the "little black dress" of literature!
I love the idea of trousers and of looser clothing after the earlier years of such fitted clothing and years of the nightmarish bustles and wide skirts and cinched waists. Women have to be able to move and Coco knew it.
Kaye - Thanks for hosting Bobbi.
Bobbi - What a fascinating and way-ahead-of-her-time person Coco Chanel was! I love the way her views about clothes, makeup, relationships and so on all worked to empower women. She was a true fashion innovator too. Thanks for this closer look at her influence.
Peggy, it's amazing that women put up with the clothes that they did for so long. Wouldn't you love to be a fly on the wall in the early days of Chanel's atelier, when they were breaking all the rules? She had a great quote, remarkable for the age: "A girl should be two things: who and what she wants.”
Margot, thanks for visiting! You're right about Chanel empowering women. I love her moxy, too. I once read what Chanel said, when asked why she didn't marry some Duke or another. She said (paraphased), "Why would anyone want to just be just another wife of the Duke of ___ when they could be the one and only Coco Chanel?" And this was well before she even had a business!
Hmmm, Hans from Dinklage. I think there was a hint in that. I'd have stayed away from Hans. :-)
Wow! I had no idea that I had Ms. Chanel to thank for wearing yoga pants to the grocery store, although I HARDLY think this is what she envisioned with her quest for fashionable trousers. Thanks for the information and I am with all the others who are eager to read your book!
Kaye, I look forward to perusings your musings.
Kyla
My favourite thing is that she freed women from uncomfortable clothes and the hour glass silhouette. I didn't know all the fascinating details about her personal life. I look forward to your novel Bobbi.
I love her perfumes. So fresh, so exotic, but never over powering. You always know a Chanel. The look is perfection.
Kyla, thank you! You're not far off about the yoga pants. Coco Chanel was the first to start using soft fabrics with 'give' to make clothing for women.She started around 1914. She used jersey, which until then was only used for men's underwear.
Gail, I appreciate your support. Yes, after all my research about her and her incredible drive I've come to believe that she may not have been the nicest person but she was the best.
Janet, I adore her perfume, too. We can't get Chanel at Sephora here in Canada but they say that is soon changing. Sephora's my favourite perfume store. I have an addiction to trying perfumes. I have N°5 on my Christmas list. You're right about the clothing. I've loved learning about the work that goes into a couture garment. Hundreds of hours in many cases.:-)
And, Eve, yes Hans was living up to his name. :-)
Some of today's clothes look awfully uncomfortable even though all of that stretch in garments supposedly makes them more comfortable. I find stretch in pants to be hot and ugly and have made a vow against buying new clothes until they remove or improve the stretch. I've written to women's clothing manufacturers telling them so. I wonder what Coco Chanel would say to all of this discomfort. Perhaps she would say, "Welcome back to bustles and hoops." (Don't get me started on those shoes!)
Ahhh COCO. I only splurged on perfume ONCE in my life. It was in Paris and it was a bottle of COCO.
I would do it alllllll again.
And I too am a HUGE fan of... comfy, stylish, trousers.
Great post, Bobbi.
Thanks to you too, Kaye.
go easy -pam
Peggy, yes, and the stretch, if it goes into the dryer by mistake is a disaster. I know what you mean about hot. Today I was on a long walk, wearing jeans with stretch and my legs were cooking.
Hi Pam. Sigh... okay you've made me want to go to Paris to get a bottle of Coco. How lovely. :-)
I forgot to mention that Coco Chanel, in the portrait near the top, was 52 years old. She was beautiful. All commentators say her beauty reached its pinnacle in her fifties. And these were the days before Retinol and plastic surgery and major photo retouches.
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